Nepal - Nature, History and Architecture

People travel for many different reasons. Vacationing is probably the most common. Yet we also travel because of work, scientific research, to visit family, to get away from it all and to relocate. Vacations are the most fun. You go for the pleasure of seeing new places, eating different foods and seeing sights that are not available locally. When on "holiday," tastes vary. I know a friend who likes to visit Paris, London, Rome and other modern cities for the shopping. Another person I know likes to be "one with nature" and looks for pristine, unadulterated bucolic settings where he can hike, climb rocks or go bird-watching. I prefer nature, history, marvels of engineering (the pyramids, the Taj Mahal, the temples of Nepal, the Coliseum in Rome and places like the Parthenon) and food. After searching far and wide, I have come to the conclusion that Nepal can boast of all these and more.

As far as nature is concerned, Nepal is a nonpareil. It is second to none in its grandeur and beauty with its majestic, world-famous Himalayan range and other idyllic spots which are still virgin and untouched. All you have to do is stand anywhere in Kathmandu, the capital city, and see the grandiose sight of the world's tallest peaks glistening in white reaching up to the sky. Or you can go on a hike to the non-distant hills (in Nepal, anything below 17,00 feet is a hill) and peer out into the distance and see more hills, mountains and valleys. The mist-covered pinnacles make for picturesque post-cards. And breathing the crisp mountain air is a luxury that is free yet priceless. You can never have enough time to vacation in a Shangri-La like this.

Nepal's place in history is secure as one of the two countries the British could not conquer. After gaining control of India, the Brits tried their best to subdue the Nepali people. Not only did they meet resistance from the natives but also had to contain with the rugged terrain which was not overly friendly to the Redcoats. The soldiers could not march up in columns or single-file because they had to climb sheer cliffs and the preponderance of rocks and nettles all over the hills. They did give up finally after these futile attempts and instead offered an olive branch of friendship.


Nepal also happens to be the only official Hindu country in the world. Though most people in the world equate Hinduism with India, it is practiced with more fervor in Nepal. After all, India has the second largest Muslim population in the world as well as a large contingent of Christians. Nepal teems with temples. You cannot go far in any city without encountering a pagoda temple or place of worship which are always occupied. Many of these temples are more than a few hundred years old with some over 1500 years old. And the architecture is magnificent - all the carvings, drawings and eroticism displayed on the pillars are unmatched. Tourists are sometimes shocked to see eroticism and sexual acts displayed on temple beams. You have to remember that the Kama Sutra is a basic part of our culture. As for the longevity of these structures, people don't realize that unlike the pyramids which are mostly rock and sand, temples are mainly wood. For wood to survive in all types of weather for so long must give pause to those who make pressure-treated lumber which still needs maintaining every few years. S0 is the technology of today (bridges, skyscrapers) really better than the old days? The temples with their majestic roofs, pillars and doorways have survived so long without giving way to age and weight. Could it be that God does indeed live there?

When you consider that in Nepal you can experience peace and tranquility, the grandeur of nature and history with architectural splendor, what more could you want? Nepal is still relatively cheap and is a place where you do get your money's worth. And don't forget Nepali cuisine. Though neighboring India and China, its cuisine is dissimilar. Yes, there are influences of Indian cooking and some Chinese flavors but what is consumed by the Nepali is quite unique. Maseura, titaura, gundruk, sinki and jaulo are a few dishes you cannot get elsewhere. There is a special fruit which I have not been able to find elsewhere in the world - not even in India. It's a sour fruit which grows on trees that tower over fifty feet and is good for making achaar. Maybe some botanists (plat biologists they are called these days, I think) can go to Nepal and identify this fruit. So go, go to Nepal and enjoy. Just don't go there for shopping unless it is for handmade goods, carpets or religious artifacts.

Hippies Met in Nepal and the US

Although there were a lot of Hippies when I was a student growing up in Nepal, I never knew any of them personally. Although intrigued with these foreigners who had come to Nepal with the barest of worldly possessions, we never befriended anyone thinking of the phenomenon as a fad that would soon disappear. So, when I came to the United States, every American who told me that he/she had been to Nepal got the third degree from me. I wanted to know under what circumstances they had been there. I usually got three types of answers but never the one I wanted.

The most common answer was that the person had visited Nepal as a tourist. This was the most prevalent response. The second type of respondent said he had been there as a Peace Corps volunteer. I had met many of the volunteers and had known a few. We had a Biology teacher at my school who was a Peace Corps volunteer from Cleveland. The last type of reply was from diplomats and kin of diplomats. Though I "searched" far and wide, these three types were typical of people I met.

The tourists raved about Nepal's beauty and relatively inexpensive lodgings, cuisine, and gifts they had bought. They all had got their money's worth and were quite content. The diplomats just thought of Nepal as another stopover in their career though most did appreciate the peace and bucolic nature of the country. The Peace Corps volunteers were most vocal in their praise of my country. They regaled me with all sorts of stories and outlined many adventures that befell them in their two-year stay. They were so thrilled to have been there and enjoyed themselves immensely especially since their stay was paid for. But I still had to find one Hippie who had been there. Now where does one look for a Hippie in New York?

It was almost 25 years later while working in Brooklyn that I met a co-worker who had been all over the world in his Hippie phase and had spent two whole years in Nepal. He described the nation as the most beautiful and tranquil place on earth and would not have left if not for family matters. He mentioned shopping in Asan, picnicking in Godavari and living in the shadows of Swayambhunath. He talked about walking all over Kathmandu because of limited funds and the unreliability of the Sajha buses that only went to certain places. He said his greatest fear was the mangy curs that roamed the streets of Kathmandu and barked fiercely at him and his companions when they came back from their late night forays. Although he lived in a Buddhist monastery, he had converted to Hinduism in his travels through India and was a devout believer.

Amazing, isn't it? When I was assiduously looking for Hippies who had been to Nepal, I did not find one. Twenty-five years later, when I had forgotten about my quest, I met a bona fide person who had traveled all over the world with prolonged stays in Nepal and India. He also mentioned having spent two days in the gutters of Karachi sick from malaria. Now he was living in New York as a sedate husband and father. Was this a change for the better? I guess even world-roaming Hippies have to grow up.

Hinduism & Buddhism

I saw a show about India the other day on PBS. It was part of a longer series of about five episodes. India's culture, history and religions were the main topics of discussion. Hinduism was, of course, the most discussed with Buddhism also quite prominently featured. Gautam Buddha was a Hindu prince, who by turning away from his opulence and life of ease and going into meditation started Buddhism, was featured and discussed at length. Every time a documentary about Hinduism is produced or an article is written about it, Nepal is very seldom mentioned. So it is not surprising that there were a few misnomers and incomplete bits of information.

First, the host of the show kept mentioning India's Hindu culture and how old it was. No mention was made that the same religion furnished alongside in Nepal . The same deities worshiped in India are revered in Nepal. In fact, Nepal is the only recognized Hindu nation. Though the show was about India, a few bits of info on Nepal and the Hindus there would not have detracted from the show. On the contrary, it would have been enhanced because of the new vistas which would have opened up. Nepal and India do border each other with the latter completely hugging Nepal on the southern and western boundaries.

Second, although Siddhartha (another name for the Buddha) went to India and stayed there meditating, he was actually a Nepali born in the Lumbini region of southern Nepal. He was Nepali by birth. Almost every article I have read on this subject and every documentary I have watched on the same fail to mention this. Many still believe that Buddha was from India. You can verify his birthright by examining the United Nations records during Secretary-General U Thant's time. U Thant, a devout Buddhist, wanted to develop and recognize Lumbini as a shrine for Buddhists all over the world. He fervently believed in this cause and had even made a few visits to Lumbini during and after his tenure as United Nations chief.

We now come to the crucial question: Does it really matter what Buddha's origin was? The answer is that it matters a great deal. People take pride in various things - patriotism, ethnicity, race, color and a myriad of lesser "connections." People are proud to have gone to the same school as a famous person. Living in Hoboken, New Jersey is a source of pride to many who revere Frank Sinatra. Being of Italian heritage makes many adopt the Italian soccer team as their own during the FIFA World Cup. So why should we Nepali not be able to "connect" with Buddha? Why should we not relish the fact he was one of us? Buddha was born in Lumbini, Nepal and will always be a Nepali.