Yak & Yeti

In the 1960's, a new hotel/restaurant sprang up in Kathmandu called the Yak & Yeti. Most of us thought of it as unusual since we had never heard of any other establishment with such an unusual name. We used to wonder what caused the owner to pick such an odd name for his venture. Only after we delved into this a little further did we realize the significance of the nomenclature. The Yak is a cow-like animal (chauri gai) that inhabits the foothills of the Himalayan ranges and the Yeti is , of course, Nepal's own Bigfoot.

The Yeti's legend is as old as the Loch Ness monster's and older than the the Sasquatch's. Known as the Yeti in Nepal, it is commonly referred to as the Abominable Snowman in English. Why abominable? Probably because anything mysterious and gigantic must be none too pleasant. No person has any definite proof it exists (either via photographs or sighting) but the legend remains strong. The Yeti is there and prowls the mountains. Only the most incredulous believe it is a fairy tale. It remains an integral part of Himalayan legend that won't die. I have been asked many times if I have seen it or believe in it. This is not unlike the question about climbing Mt. Everest in one of my previous articles.

The yak, on the other hand, is an animal that inhabits the Himalayan ranges in Nepal and is also found in Tibet and faraway Mongolia. The Tibetans and Sherpas use its milk to make different products like butter and chhurpi. The yak is a bovine animal not unlike the cow. The main difference is that the hair on yaks is extremely long to protect it from the freezing cold. The yak is not found at lower attitudes. The yak survives where cows cannot and vice versa. Most yaks are domesticated but wild yaks still flourish.

The tasty, edible chhurpi that is made from yak milk is a dried smoked cheese product that is extremely hard but tasty. Though chhurpis are sometimes made soft, they don't have the same flavor and aroma. When eating hard chhurpi, it is best to let it remain in your mouth and let your saliva work on softening it rather than trying to chew on it. The chhurpi is so hard I have known friends to lose their teeth and get lasting pains in their jaws while attempting to chew on it. If left in the mouth long enough, the chhurpi softens slowly and the refreshing taste is quite savory. Many (foreigners and most people with a strong olfactory sense) cannot stomach the taste of the chhurpi because most have a strong odor which people find unappetizing. We always bring back a whole bagful when we go home for a visit. The chhurpi like the betel nut is the dentist's best friend - it can bring them clients galore.

So now that the yak and Yeti have been revealed to be an integral part of Nepali culture and folklore, I wonder how many visitors will venture to know more about them. The chhurpi is available all over Kathmandu but you must go further north to see the yak (in its original habitat). Maybe the people at the Yak & Yeti can help. After all, it would be good for their business. And they might even answer questions on the naming of their establishment.