Yak & Yeti

In the 1960's, a new hotel/restaurant sprang up in Kathmandu called the Yak & Yeti. Most of us thought of it as unusual since we had never heard of any other establishment with such an unusual name. We used to wonder what caused the owner to pick such an odd name for his venture. Only after we delved into this a little further did we realize the significance of the nomenclature. The Yak is a cow-like animal (chauri gai) that inhabits the foothills of the Himalayan ranges and the Yeti is , of course, Nepal's own Bigfoot.

The Yeti's legend is as old as the Loch Ness monster's and older than the the Sasquatch's. Known as the Yeti in Nepal, it is commonly referred to as the Abominable Snowman in English. Why abominable? Probably because anything mysterious and gigantic must be none too pleasant. No person has any definite proof it exists (either via photographs or sighting) but the legend remains strong. The Yeti is there and prowls the mountains. Only the most incredulous believe it is a fairy tale. It remains an integral part of Himalayan legend that won't die. I have been asked many times if I have seen it or believe in it. This is not unlike the question about climbing Mt. Everest in one of my previous articles.

The yak, on the other hand, is an animal that inhabits the Himalayan ranges in Nepal and is also found in Tibet and faraway Mongolia. The Tibetans and Sherpas use its milk to make different products like butter and chhurpi. The yak is a bovine animal not unlike the cow. The main difference is that the hair on yaks is extremely long to protect it from the freezing cold. The yak is not found at lower attitudes. The yak survives where cows cannot and vice versa. Most yaks are domesticated but wild yaks still flourish.

The tasty, edible chhurpi that is made from yak milk is a dried smoked cheese product that is extremely hard but tasty. Though chhurpis are sometimes made soft, they don't have the same flavor and aroma. When eating hard chhurpi, it is best to let it remain in your mouth and let your saliva work on softening it rather than trying to chew on it. The chhurpi is so hard I have known friends to lose their teeth and get lasting pains in their jaws while attempting to chew on it. If left in the mouth long enough, the chhurpi softens slowly and the refreshing taste is quite savory. Many (foreigners and most people with a strong olfactory sense) cannot stomach the taste of the chhurpi because most have a strong odor which people find unappetizing. We always bring back a whole bagful when we go home for a visit. The chhurpi like the betel nut is the dentist's best friend - it can bring them clients galore.

So now that the yak and Yeti have been revealed to be an integral part of Nepali culture and folklore, I wonder how many visitors will venture to know more about them. The chhurpi is available all over Kathmandu but you must go further north to see the yak (in its original habitat). Maybe the people at the Yak & Yeti can help. After all, it would be good for their business. And they might even answer questions on the naming of their establishment.

Hinduism & Buddhism

I saw a show about India the other day on PBS. It was part of a longer series of about five episodes. India's culture, history and religions were the main topics of discussion. Hinduism was, of course, the most discussed with Buddhism also quite prominently featured. Gautam Buddha was a Hindu prince, who by turning away from his opulence and life of ease and going into meditation started Buddhism, was featured and discussed at length. Every time a documentary about Hinduism is produced or an article is written about it, Nepal is very seldom mentioned. So it is not surprising that there were a few misnomers and incomplete bits of information.

First, the host of the show kept mentioning India's Hindu culture and how old it was. No mention was made that the same religion furnished alongside in Nepal . The same deities worshiped in India are revered in Nepal. In fact, Nepal is the only recognized Hindu nation. Though the show was about India, a few bits of info on Nepal and the Hindus there would not have detracted from the show. On the contrary, it would have been enhanced because of the new vistas which would have opened up. Nepal and India do border each other with the latter completely hugging Nepal on the southern and western boundaries.

Second, although Siddhartha (another name for the Buddha) went to India and stayed there meditating, he was actually a Nepali born in the Lumbini region of southern Nepal. He was Nepali by birth. Almost every article I have read on this subject and every documentary I have watched on the same fail to mention this. Many still believe that Buddha was from India. You can verify his birthright by examining the United Nations records during Secretary-General U Thant's time. U Thant, a devout Buddhist, wanted to develop and recognize Lumbini as a shrine for Buddhists all over the world. He fervently believed in this cause and had even made a few visits to Lumbini during and after his tenure as United Nations chief.

We now come to the crucial question: Does it really matter what Buddha's origin was? The answer is that it matters a great deal. People take pride in various things - patriotism, ethnicity, race, color and a myriad of lesser "connections." People are proud to have gone to the same school as a famous person. Living in Hoboken, New Jersey is a source of pride to many who revere Frank Sinatra. Being of Italian heritage makes many adopt the Italian soccer team as their own during the FIFA World Cup. So why should we Nepali not be able to "connect" with Buddha? Why should we not relish the fact he was one of us? Buddha was born in Lumbini, Nepal and will always be a Nepali.

Mt. Everest

Ah, Mt. Everest. The name conjures up such diverse sentiments - forlorn, chilly, lofty, majestic, grandiose, foreboding and romantic? Of course in Nepali and Tibetan (countries on the two sides of this unparalleled wonder of the world), it is know as Sagarmatha (top of the world) and Chomolongma. But, since Sir George Everest "discovered" it, his name has been synonymous with it - his eponym. So it's not strange for people from that region to be asked questions which seem quite incredulous concerning Everest.

When I came here as a student early in the 1970's and introduced myself as Nepali (yes, we are Nepali not Nepalese), I was invariably inundated with questions about Everest and marijuana. Of course, I am talking about those worldly enough to know about the mountain and also to know about the Hippie movement. (The Hippie movement will be discussed in next day or so in my next blog). Questions about Everest ranged from the sublime ("Have you seen it? Is it really that awe-inspiring?") to the ridiculous ("How many times have you climbed it?").

I used to go into a blase mode since it was not as awe-inspiring to me having seen it a few hundred times back home. I only understood the significance of the question when I visited Denver a few years later and looked at the Rockies with eyes bulging and stood there breathless. My Aunt asked me why I was so enthralled since I had been seeing the same sight (huger and closer) for almost all my life. This brought me down to earth in a hurry and I had to admit that familiarity does breed contempt. I then realized that I had not really seen the panoramic beauty of this gorgeous titan because it was an everyday sighting. Now I answer questions differently.

Yes, Mt Everest is every bit as majestic and breathtaking as reported. It is definitely nature's greatest gift to mankind. And it is something for any self-respecting poet or travel writer to know and write about. It has to be seen to be believed. To appreciate its full grandeur, one must see it live and close up. When I was home a couple of years back, I made it a point to see it again because I knew not when I might get the chance.

As for the climbing of Everest, I have not climbed it or attempted to do so. Nor do I have any ambition to do so. The best I can hope for is to have my ashes sprinkled at its base. But I am still taken aback at the thought that people believed climbing Sagarmatha was like driving up Mt. Washinton in New Hampshire and getting a bumper sticker which stated as much. I have climbed Mt. Rainier in Washington State (about 300 feet up). Does that count?

Nepali Cooking: Most used spice

Just as oil is essential to almost any kind of cooking, there is one spice that is so prevalent in basic Nepali cooking that no household is complete without it. It is used in cooking vegetables, meats, daal and many other foods. It is said to have curative and disease-resisting powers. It is also used for making Nepali pickles especially cauliflower and radish (moola). But beware spilling it or wearing light colored clothes when using it. This spice is so potent that it leaves permanent stains on clothes and furniture. Most Nepali kitchens have to be scrubbed quickly and thoroughly if one wants to remove its stain. Why then is this spice so commonly used? Because if not used, foods do not have the same flavor and taste. What then is this must-have spice which in the hands of children or careless cooks causes so much havoc? It's the simple spice we call "besar" - turmeric in English. One can never get the essence of Nepali food unless besar is added. Just be VERY careful with its use - I have yellow stains on my kitchen counter and kitchen floor to prove it.